These are Gorgon Studios French for the campaign in Norway in the spring of 1940.
These miniatures were some of the first ww2 figures I ever painted, only a few years ago. Most of them were made by Warlord Games, with a few being Gorgon Studios (with greatcoats and leather jackets). I have now managed to take some decent pictures of these figures and so I removed the old post.
I did make some mistakes with these. I placed the bipod for one of the Bren gunners slightly to far forward. I also remember I was a bit unsure of how to use Army Painter’s Quickshade at that time. But they came out pretty good anyway.
Both the Warlord and the Gorgon miniatures are of the best quality. And it is great to have your whole platoon in metal! With the Gorgon figures there are some problems with historical accuracy in the details. The figures have bayonet scabbards, but there are no bayonets in them or on the rifles. The rifles themselves look more like the no 4 than the mk III (which the Warlord minis are clearly carrying), although I must admit, the difference is not enormous. But all of them have a lot of character and really well made faces and details making them easy to paint.
The paint scheme was as follows:
Helmet: Vallejo Brown Violet
Uniform: Vallejo British Uniform
Webbing: Vallejo Green Grey
Rifle wood: Army Painter Oak Brown
Metal: black with Coat d’arms Gun Metal and Enchanting Silver highlights
Water bottle: Army Painter Leather Brown
Skin: Coat d’arms Tanned Flesh with Coat d’arms Flesh highlights
Tea cup: Vallejo Pale Sand (If I remember correctly…) with rim Coat d’arms Marine Blue
All colors except metal and boots were shaded with AP Quickshade and highlighted with the original color and then a mix of that color and Vallejo Dark Sand.
Perry miniatures have released a very nice range of Swedish/Finnish miniatures for the 1808-1809 war with Russia relatively recently. The figures are very nice and the campaign seems perfect for small scale skirmish wargaming, such as Sharp Practice or other systems.
Of course I ordered some of these soon after they were released. So far, two sets of line infantry (marching/firing line) have been released, as well as three different sets of jägers and some dragoons. However, I have been slow to paint the few figures I have, as some critical pieces are still missing. There are few alternatives to Perry when it comes to Swedes for 1808. Those that do exist are not quite of the high standard that Perry set for themselves, which means one is reluctant to use figures from other manufacturers together with these excellent miniatures.
Perry have now announced that they will soon be releasing sets of Swedish artillery. These are of course crucial. Even in the small scale skirmishes, often involving just a few companies or a couple of battalions of troops, artillery were still very often dragged along. The final missing piece will be mounted officers and generals. Let’s hope Perry have these in the pipeline as well, as they would round the whole thing off nicely.
But the main problem is flags. For my Russians I have used the excellent GMB flags. The range is comprehensive and the flags look great. Unfortunately, there is nothing comparable for the Swedish/Finnish army. Until GMB release a Swedish range, I will have to try making my own flags. I have tried but have yet to make one that looks good enough. We will see how it goes; for Sharp Practice I suppose you only really need one or two, maybe I can do really weathered and tattered ones to cover up my lack of skill in free-hand painting.
These are WW2 US infantry made by Perry Miniatures. Most of them are plastic figures from the box set, with a few metal figures added in for variation. The metal figures have no jackets on, they are wearing only their shirts. The plastic set is excellent and in itself contains miniatures to create a whole platoon for Chain of Command and other games. A full platoon consists of three 12-man squads, each including an nco carrying a sub-machine gun and one BAR automatic rifle gunner. There is also an officer, sergeant and a bazooka team. In addition, the box contains a couple of .30 cal machine guns, a sniper and various options for weapons, heads etc.
The poses are more natural than in some other sets, and the figures have relatively reasonable proportions, with hands and weapons smaller than on e.g. Warlord or Artizan figures. The details however, are perhaps not always as good as on Warlord’s plastic sets. This is especially true of the metal figures. On the whole though, the set is very good, better in my opinion than Warlord’s plastics.
Considering the fact that these are more naturalistic in appearance, and not quite as ‘heroic’ as som 28 mm miniatures, it seemed approprite to paint them in rather subdued colors. Adding many layers of highlighting and meticulous detailing probably would not have made them look that much better. A perfect opportunity for speed painting, in other words!
This is how I did it. First, I prepared the miniatures by cutting out and cleaning the plastic parts and metal figures with a knife. The most important thing to do at this stage is to remove mould lines, which appear on all miniatures, both metal and plastic. Sometimes you can read reviews that state that a certain set or manufacturer has figures with “almost no mould lines”, or words to that effect. It is true that some miniatures have more obvious mould lines than others. But in my experience there is always a need to remove lines. Sometimes they will only appear after the primer has been applied. Therefore I actually prefer miniatures with readily apparent mould lines, because that makes it easier to remove them. Obviously there are cases, especially on older metal miniatures, when the mould lines are so sharp that they distort details on the minatures, for example on faces and other important parts of the figure. This is certainly not good! But a moderate amount of mould lines is not a problem. Just remember to never skip this step or you will regret it later.
Next stage is basing. I use 4Ground’s Base Render, a loose, slightly textured putty, to smooth over the transition from the small bases on which the figures come, and the larger base on which I mount them. By the way, the Perry set comes with 20 mm bases. But as all my other WW2 miniatures are based on 25 mm bases, I used those here as well.
After letting the Base Render dry (at least 12 hours), I apply some sand to the bases using PVA glue. After that has dried (for several hours), I spray the primer on using Army Painter’s Leather Brown spray can. This is a good shade because it is very close to the uniform of these figures, and because it also works as the base color for the base.
Next stage is to paint the basic colors. In this case this is Vallejo US Field drab for the trousers and shirts, Vallejo Khaki for the jackets, gaiters and webbing, Coat d’arms Tanned Flesh for skin, Vallejo Leather Brown for leather straps and boots, Army Painter Oak Brown for rifle stocks and Vallejo Brown Violet for helmet and bayonet scabbard. This paint scheme is rather simplified. It would not look bad to use a slightly different shade for webbing, and perhaps different shades of leather for shoes and straps. But this works well enough and saves a bit of time. After painting the basic colors, I also applied transfers for the 29th Infantry division shoulder emblem and rank insignia for corporals and sergeants. The transfers I used are made by Warlord Games.
The base colors should be allowed to dry for a little while, then I apply Army Painter’s Quickshade ‘dip’. This is a varnish with shading, which is not water-based and needs to be cleaned with proper solvents. Using it is much messier than working with water-based acrylics, but it does give a very nice shading effect. It also varnishes the figures, protecting the paint very effectively. It is applied to the whole figure and provides shading for all colors except black and metals, which I add in later.
Now the figures need to dry for 48 hours (!). If you start working on them too soon cracks may appear in the paint, and the whole effort will be for nothing – trust me, I have tried it!
When they are properly dry, I start with drybrushing the base, first with Vallejo US Field Drab, then with Vallejo Dark Sand. I also paint the edge of the base with Vallejo Brown Violet (this can be done at a later stage). After that, I highlight the miniatures using the base color. Metal parts are painted black and highlighted with Coat d’arms Gun metal mixed with black, and then pure Gun metal. Skin on hands and faces are given a two-stage highlight with Tanned Flesh (the base color) followed by Coat d’arms Flesh. I think the skin needs two stages of highlight as the faces in particular give the figures much of their character. The uniform on WW2 miniatures on the other hand, looks rather good with just the single highlight – to speed up the process even further, it actually works quite OK skipping even that.
Finally, I add the eyes and give the figures a matt varnish, I use Vallejo’s acrylic varnish.
This is a first attempt at German panzergrenadiers as they would have appeared at the battle of Kursk in 1943. There are no miniatures available that are perfectly suitable for this period. Most are designed for “late war”, that is 1944-45. Those figures most often have the low boots with gaiters, they have mp44s, panzerfausts et cetera, none of which were used at Kursk (some soldiers may perhaps have had low boots and gaiters).
The primary goal is to make a platoon of 3×10 men and an officer, to be used playing the Chain of Command rules set. Each squad will include two mg34s and two mp40s, the rest of the men carrying rifles. This reflects the equipment of a historical panzer grenadier platoon of 1943, as far as I can tell. I may also add some figures with bundled stick-grenades and Molotov cocktails (representing improvised AT weapons) but I don’t know to what extent these were actually used at that particular point in time.
I also have vehicles to go with the infantry, but the infantry take far more time to assemble and paint, especially in this case with all the conversion work and the camo pattern on the jackets. So the vehicles will have to wait.
Basic color scheme
The base colors (except black and metals) are shaded with Army Painter Quickshade Strong Tone Wash (water based version). Highlights are added first with the base color and then with base color + Vallejo Dark Sand. The whole thing is finished off with at matt varnish (Vallejo water based matt varnish 62.062).
Primer: Army painter Leather Brown (spray)
Uniform: Vallejo German Fieldgrey
Camo on jacket, helmet cover and Zeltbahn: Vallejo Beige Brown/Vallejo Black Grey/Coat d’arms Goblin Green
Boots and webbing: Black (highlights with Vallejo Black Grey & Vallejo Dark Rubber)
Leather straps: Vallejo Leather Brown
Bread Bag: Vallejo Canvas
Gas mask case: Vallejo German Camo Dark Green
Water bottle: Vallejo US Field Drab/Vallejo Brown Violet
Entrenching tool wood: Army Painter Oak Brown
Rifle stock wood: 50/50 Army painter Desert Yellow + Vallejo Gold Brown
Steel: Black highlighted successively with Coat d’arms Gun Metal and Coat d’arms Enchanted Silver
Skin: Coat d’arms Tanned Flesh, highlighted with Coat d’arms Flesh
Collar insignia: Vallejo Dark Sand, highlighted with white
Cords on camo jacket: Vallejo Dark Sand
Base: Vallejo US Field Drab, highlighted with Vallejo Dark Sand
These figures are made by Warlord and are some of the best sculpts I have ever painted. The detail is of the highest quality. If only Warlord made more metal figures such as these…
These are Warlord Games US Airborne and Perry Miniatures US infantry
The bulk of these figures are made by Warlord Games, but there are also some by Artizan Designs.